The farm share is a
classic double-edged sword. Sometimes you get vast amounts of
certain vegetables for a whole host of environmental and
climatological reasons and the challenge of using them all leads you
to new techniques and new recipes and other times, Oh My God I cannot
eat another fucking turnip! This year we got a lot of tomatoes. Not
only did we grow them ourselves as we always do, but Steve had so
many he was selling them by the box on pick up days. We bought them.
Obviously, our experience with the tomatoes was more of the cutting
the other guy edge of the sword and less of the accidentally lopping
off your thumb edge, as tomatoes are a lot easier to use than
turnips, especially given that much of our home cooking is in the
Ameritalian tradition.
We had some typical
responses to the tomato avalanche. Of course there were lots of
salads, as there always are lots and lots of salad in the summer. We
also made sauce, diced them and tossed them with pasta, and canned
them. We also made salsa and froze it. (Yes, you can freeze salsa.)
Here are a few things we did that might not be as typical, including
the best fucking sauce I've ever fucking had.
Tomato Water Ice
Cubes: A lot of tomato recipes call for you to take out seeds and
all the congealed mystery ick that surrounds them and most of the
time you just throw that stuff out. Instead, put it in a strainer
over some kind of receptacle and let it drain. A pink, slightly
thick liquid will collect, which I'm going to assume is called
“tomato water.” Pour it into an ice cube tray and then put the
cubes in a plastic bag in the freezer. These cubes have tons of
uses. First, there simply is no other way to chill a Bloody Mary.
I've tried a few other cocktails with them, but they are very nice in
vodka or a martini. Second, because tomatoes have “umami”
chemicals these cubes add a depth of flavor to a lot of other dishes.
We added them to gazpacho to great effect. And to rice. Just
replace some of the water with tomato water and the rice takes on an
almost meaty flavor. The same goes with any kind of tomato sauce.
By retaining the water, you avoid the seeds but don't lose any
intensity of flavor. Really any dish that uses water, that doesn't
have an inherent flavor conflict, will benefit by replacing some of
the water with tomato water. And I'm sure there's a smoothy in
waiting at some point.
Corn and Tomato Pie: Every now and again you throw a few key words into Google and it
justifies (sort of) the gazillions of dollars it makes every year.
What makes this recipe from Smitten Kitchen so successful is
that it has a totally unique taste. It doesn't just taste like corn
and tomatoes in a pie crust. The different sugars in the two
vegetables combine into a unique flavor, one that manages to be
sweet, while interacting with savory “it's dinner time” parts of
your brain. It's a really cool, really delicious dish. And, because
of whatever magic is in this pie, you could serve a salad with
tomatoes on the side without risk of, I guess you'd call it, “tomato
fatigue.” One of the challenges with avalanches of a particular
vegetable, even a delicious particular vegetable, is that you get
sick of the same flavor, even a delicious flavor, after a while.
This recipe adds diversity to the same ingredient. (Also, you could
just smother whatever in an appropriate cheese. A technique I, and
my gout, personally endorse.)
The Best Tomato
Sauce You Have Ever Had: I had the audacity to go away for a couple
days for a book conference (yes, we have those), and the conference
happened to coincide with our purchase of a 20ish pound box of San
Marzano tomatoes. When I came back ‘riss had leftovers from her
most recent experiment; pasta and some sauce. My brain melted from
the awesome. Like the corn and tomato pie above, it was a totally
unique flavor, with a tomato sweetness cut by a butteryness I've
never tasted before (a butteryness, I should add, that came in sauce
whose only fat content was olive oil). Obviously, you want to know
how she made this sauce, though I'm not sure you can be trusted with
such arcane knowledge. OK, my concerns over the time-span continuum
aren't strong enough to counteract my need to brag, so here it is.
Ingredients
A whole bunch of San
Marzano tomatoes. (You could use most other kinds, but I probably
wouldn't use a fancy heirloom and you’ll have to bake them longer
to condense the water.)
Salt
Pepper
Olive Oil
Half an onion, diced
2-4 cloves of
garlic, minced
Perhaps a dash of
dried oregano or any other herb of your choice (like the
overabundance of basil which coincides with tomato season)
Instructions:
Preheat the oven to
350
If using San Marzano
tomatoes, half them perpendicular so that when you open it looks like
each half has two compartments of tomato goo. If you are using
regular tomatoes, cut the horizontal, scoop out all the seeds with
your fingers and then cut them in half again, making quarters. Seed
the tomatoes and retain the tomato water, (a small mesh colander over
a bowl works great for this). Place the halved tomatoes face up on a
baking sheet or pyrex dish. We put them on a silicone mat to keep
them from sticking. Basically you want something that will be easy to
clean burnt tomato sugar off of, since there’s a lot of it tomatoes
and hot sugar is sticky. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over the
tomatoes and drizzle the top with a bit of olive oil. Bake for about
an hour, rotating the pan in the oven halfway through to ensure even
cooking, unless you've got one of those schmancy ovens with even heat
all over. The astute recipe reader will probably notice that this
really just a slow roast. At the end, the tomatoes look almost
sun-dried. Given them a moment to cool and then extract them from the
baking sheet and peel the skin. If there is a little bit stuck on
the skin, it’s not a huge deal, you just want 85-95% of it gone so
you get a smooth sauce.
In a blender or food
processor puree the tomatoes with the retained tomato water. What
you've essentially made is something one step removed from tomato
paste. You've removed the water from the flesh in the tomatoes
through the baking and then added the more intensely flavored tomato
water to bring it back to sauce consistency. You can actually use
this as a sandwich spread (great with rabe and provolone) or freeze
it to use later.
Sweat the onion and
garlic over medium heat, in a frying pan with a whole bunch of olive
oil until the onions are softened and transparent but not browned.
The olive oil is not just for frying the onions and garlic but also
for thinning the puree to a sauce consistency and adding some fat to
interact with the umami of the concentrated tomato flavor.
Add the puree the
pan, whisking to combine it with the onions, garlic, and olive oil.
If it is too thick add a little water until you've reached your
desired consistency. Once at that consistency and warmed through
taste it and adjust the seasoning with a little oregano, salt and
pepper. You could serve this over an old magazine and a with a
little grated cheese, it would be delicious.
Alternately, if you
want to use it to make a vodka or wine based sauce, you put the
alcohol over the onions and garlic and let the liquid reduce by half
before adding the tomatoes. (Or perhaps even
some tomato infused vodka if you have any, which we do, because, if
you've heard, we got a lot of tomatoes this summer. How do you make
it? Vodka, cut up tomatoes, time and a strainer at the end.)
One of the great
downsides to our modern American food industry is that most of us,
most of the time, are never challenged by ingredients. We decided
what we want and then buy whatever is needed to make that from the
grocery store. But, none of the world's cuisines developed that way.
All the traditional recipes came from people coping with the
ingredients their climate forced on them. Furthermore, the greatest
recipes, especially when you start cooking animals as well, are
inspired by poverty, the need to make a tough cut of meat or a
strange looking vegetable into something delicious because you have
to eat it or starve. Obviously, ‘riss and I won't reach that
point, but having the farm share has replicated, at least in a small,
safe way, a part of that challenge, and I personally think our
cooking has improved because of it.